Well just a quick update. Had a few free days over the weekend and removed the original A12 out of the 120y, removed suprisingly well even with the gearbox attached. I completed the assembly of the L16 and gave the engine bay a quick paint with Black Acrylic, and began the trial fit of the engine. I removed the 120y crossmember prior to the fit, and removed the saddles off the the Stanza crossmember to weld onto the 120y crossmember. The stanza saddles ended up being located almost exactly where the original 120y mounts were located, which was obvious by the location of the spot welds. The crossmember was trial fitted to the engine to ensure the angles were correct in relation to the engine mounts, and finally the crossmember was installed.
The L16 was installed with the gearbox attached, and was a snug fit however ended up slotting in okay. The rocker cover did rub against the firewall due to the "dangling" angle of the gearbox, however it fitted quite well. The engine mounts didnt exactly line up with the mounts on the crossmember, however with elongation of bolt holes on the engine mounts it fitted quite nicely. The gearbox was then held into place with rope, and i ensured the tailshaft fitted. I was pleasently suprised when the tailshaft fitted, could possible use a little more freeplay, however i am happy.. hopefully the diff doesnt move too much.
The gearbox crossmember was time consuming, however not overly complicated. All that was required was to extend the metal "wings" on the crossmember, in order to reach the existing mounting holes. Fortunately their was 3 gearbox mounting holes, 2 that were originally used, and the unused mounting hole was closer to the crossmember, therefore the length of the welded plate needed to be less. I will post up a few pictures of the crossmember we designed later.
Next came the wiring and general fitment issues:
--Firstly the coil and ballast resistor didnt enjoy being used on the L16 distributor.. with the ballast resistor getting very hot. It may work for other users who does this conversion, however my ballast resistor is already pretty dodgy. Replacing the coil and ballast resistor with the Stanza items remedied this problem.
--The stanza alternator had different wiring, and in all honesty i couldnt be bothered.. As already the charging system had failed on this car so i wanted the reliability of Internally regulated alternator, which i have currently ordered
--Black wires with yellow tracers that run down the transmission tunnel must be bridged. These wires only allow the car to start in Park or Neutral with the Auto, and are useless for the Manual conversion.
--Existing fuel lines are too small for the inlet for the DCNF 40 Weber, so a new outlet barb from the fuel pump is required. Also due to the orientation of the Weber, a longer throttle cable is needed. (ANYONE KNOW OF ANY SLIGHTLY LONGER CABLES THAT WILL WORK???)
--Radiator will be difficult, the fan currently sits close to the shroud, so butchering of the radiator support will probably be required.
I have uploaded some photos to show the progress, feel free to ask any questions, i have noticed information on this conversion is quite scarce, so i hope i have provided some good information
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