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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 1:20 am
Posts: 355
Location: Booyal, QLD (near Bundaberg)
DatsAndy wrote:
Stanza cross member and all front end would have bolted straight in.
What model/year Stanza?

I see "Stanza" and "Bluebird" mentioned several times below that post, with no model/year/body platform included. It would be handy to know what specific model car the bits came off.

EG 83 Series 2 Bluebird Wagon

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1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 8:27 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:48 am
Posts: 51
Location: Toowoomba
Its a series 2 bluebird wagon not sure what year without looking at it and its a 79 Stanza Sedan. Im not sure if I have already mentioned it but the Stanza had an L20B in it when i bought it.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 8:17 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:48 am
Posts: 51
Location: Toowoomba
So here are a heap of photos. Car has been on the road now for a few months and it runs excelent.

Completed Engine Bay
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Thermo Fan
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Exterior
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Roof Racks (Yes I do plan on learning how to surf)
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Front Door Card
These are some custom ones I put together.
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Rear Door Card
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There is a 6inch speaker in both of those door cards. I got the shallowest mount speaker I could find and mounted them directly to the steel. The front one cleared the window find but the rear required a 18mm spacer. I then used the original door cards to get the cutout correct into 3mm MDF. I then cut a hole large enough to fit over the speakers without fouling. Using an MDF ring of the correct thickness, an old sheet and some fiberglass I created a pod to rise above the top of the speaker. I also covered the entire sheet of MDF in fiberglass resin. I then covered the outer side of the card with black speaker box carpet and covered the speaker hole with aluminium fly screen mesh. I then wrapped the whole thing in speaker grille cloth to create my hidden speaker design. I used generic metal door clips to hold the door cards to the doors. I believe they are designed for old holdens. I was going to install a sub but after getting the stereo up and running I see no need it sounds really good. I believe this is due to the ridgity of the cards stucture the holding power of the clips and the thick black carpet under the grille cloth.

Stereo and Shifter
I butchered the center console to create the headunit carrier.
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Gear Knob I made from aluminium modelled from the original sunny one. I mite have another go at this when I have some time cause im not a big fan of the flat top it needs a bit of a curve
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Seats
(It looks like something has happened to the photo of the front seats i'll get it up when I can
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Instrument Cluster
Ok so this took me a few months. It consists of a Speedo, Tacho, Odometer, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Fuel and Voltmeter and Hi-Beam Indicator. Its all been made from scratch using LED's.
I removed The original instuments from the main carrier and cut 4 panels of clear Acrylic Plastic to fit in snuggly. I then painted one side of the plastic with black paint. I then used a CNC mill to drill the holes for the 3mm LED's and to etch the symbols etc into the paint so they would be visible when light was behind them. I then created the LED drivers using LED Bar/Dot Driver system just like in late 80's Hi-Fi Systems. Each instument has its own calibration and translation circuit to make sense of what is going on. The Odometer is made with a small LCD Screen and a PICAXE chip. It has a main trip counter, 2 resetable trip counters, average speed and a hours minutes seconds timer.
I moulded some black tinted acrylic plastic to sit over the top of the panels so when the car is off unless you look really closely it appears to have no instruments at all.
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Short video of Instrument Cluster in action
http://s857.photobucket.com/albums/ab13 ... CN2461.mp4


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 10:23 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2003 6:00 pm
Posts: 94
Location: greystanes,sydney,nsw
You can get black window winders & the door latch guards from an N14 Pulsar that'll go straight on, plus you should be able to find some black arm rests from a 120Y or maybe a 1200 ute with a black interior. Those style window winders I had on a Sunny & that kept falling off, even with locktight on the grub screws & such. I'd painted the original winders black but this made them brittle & they both broke. Thats when I came up with the N14 solution.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 6:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2010 9:52 pm
Posts: 31
Location: Kenya
That's one clean engine bay. Nice job!


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 10:30 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:48 am
Posts: 51
Location: Toowoomba
So its been over a year since I posted an update on this. So after only having the car on the road for a few months someone decides to run a red light.

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Then is the long wait to get everything sorted etc. During which time I found another '79 wagon (the new parts have gotta come from somewhere)

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Then just before Easter the motor I had in it decides to blow a head gasket. As luck would have it I was in the middle of a rebuild but had not removed the crank or pistons from my second motor.

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So I bought a gasket kit, water pump, clutch kit etc. Then over easter put it all back together. The motor already had over sized pistons in it so the bores weren't worn much at all. The head needed a bit of welding in the water jacket.

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After all that I have managed to get hold of an aftermarket aircon system for it. I found it in a Sunny panel van out bush. Everything in the engine bay aircon wise had been removed, not that that mattered as all that stuff would have to be changed anyway due to mine having a L20. But the evaporator, wiring and the AC control panel were all still present. The evaporator is still being checked over and cleaned at this stage.
I also started making center caps for my mag wheels, I have made a total of 8 as I have a spare set of mags but I will be engraving something different into the 2 sets. The center caps will be held on with 4 bolts coming through from the back of the mag. They are modelled off the original Sunny center caps.

This is my timber piece to test the CNC program for doing the slots
That cutter was spinning at 5000rpm when the photo was taken phone cameras have come such a long way.
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The radial slots are slightly different on each set.
Version 1
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Version 2
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After all that other plans are to rebuild a steering box I'm sure anyone whos owned a sunny would know why I'm doing this. Also Electronic Ignition, however I'm going to give the jaycar programmable ignition a try as the price people are demanding for the factory dizzys are getting rediculous and I believe a properly setup Jaycar system will far out perform the factory one not to mention the price difference is negligable.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 9:32 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 8:38 pm
Posts: 1135
Location: straya
Great build- love it. IM surprised your dogleg.hanging together behind that l20


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 11:57 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 18, 2008 11:51 pm
Posts: 284
Location: Melbourne Eastern
I'm impressed by your work. Please keep the updates coming!


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 10:23 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:48 am
Posts: 51
Location: Toowoomba
So this is my first update in along time.
So where to begin.

I still havn't finnished my mag center caps problems with getting the CAD program to do what I want and time to do it.

Headunit started to have issues so I replaced it with a chinese special "EONON" brand. I bought it directly from the manufactures website and it works pretty good has DVD, USB, SD card, 7inch touchscreen, Digital TV tuner, AM, FM, GPS, Bluetooth all the bells and whistles. For what I payed for it I'm pretty happy with it.

I also had some starting issues so I purchased a remanufactured genuine Nissan reduction drive starter from the States.

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So the Air Con system is finally functioning as of yesterday there are a few more things that have to be addressed to get it working at its best potential.

First step was upgrading the radiator as I wasn't sure If the twin core standard Stanza one would handle the motor behind condensers especially in summer also it had started to develope leaks in the top tank so it was getting rather worn out.

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The radiator I used was a ebay chinese special which so far has been really good. Its a triple core I did have to modify the lower tank and outlet. Luckly I know a guy who knows how to TIG weld ally.

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Then came the task of mounting the twin condensers infront of the radiator. The condensers are from a Toyota Dyna truck. I went with these as they were the only ones I could get that would fit in the space avaliable. I went with two to increase efficiancy as they are very small. Also due to the thermo fan and brace a single one in the center wasn't an option.

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Then came the task of installing the compressor. First I had to change the crank pulley to the twin groove. The bluebird I wrecked had Air Con so the pulley, bracket, and tensioner pulley all came from that. The compressor however came from a 6 cylinder L-series motor as the one from the bluebird had ceased. As the compressor was different I had to make small adaptor brackets to fit this compressor to the bracket that I as the one from the 6-cylinder didn't work with the tensioner pulley.


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As you can see in the photo the reciever drier was also installed it has a trinity pressure switch one terminal will stop the compressor if the pressure gets to low (no enough gas) or to high (blockage or condensors are not cooling the gas enough). The other terminal starts the thermo fan once the pressure rises to a certain level (when the car is sitting at lights etc)

I then installed the evaporator and internal electrics. When I removed the evaporater from the vehicle out bush I also grabed the entire air box and I'm glad I did as it also had a larger and more powerful blower fan and speed resistor.

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Then came getting the hoses made to suit the entire system. I had to get the fittings for the Dyna condensers custom made due to the tight space I was working with. I also had the entire system connected with flexible hoses and routed in such a way they if I need to move the condensers out of the way I can without degassing the system.

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Then came the oil and gas. After a fair bit of research into retrofitting procedures I discovered most of it is opinion making what is correct and who actually know what they are on about very difficult to gauge. I say retrofit as the compressor, evaporator and TX Valve are from the R12 gas days. So I went with an Oil that supposed to safe for all seal types as well as changed any seal that I could without taking stuff apart to far. R134A was the gas of choice.

As you can see cold air

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The improvements that I have to make is a small thermo fan on the first condensor triggered off the compressor to improve efficency as well as turn down the thermostate to get the air colder at the vents. Then we mite be able to fit in more gas to get it cooling even better. Being a custom system there is a bit of trial and error involved.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 10:04 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 8:38 pm
Posts: 1135
Location: straya
Hope your motor doesn't move forward on irs,mounts or that core and water pulley bolts are going to kids and chew out the core.

I had a dream of Lpg and air con in mine. Glad to see you got it done. Nice daily


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 10:34 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2011 10:56 am
Posts: 404
Location: Belco, act
this is looking good, any more? im looking to l20b my sunny wags, i have a soft spot for wagons and this is an example why

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1979 Datsun Sunny Wagon 13b Turbo conversion: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=28890


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:27 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:48 am
Posts: 51
Location: Toowoomba
I have done a bit since last update.
I been having issues with the AC not functioning correctly. Being the Condensers are not cooling the gas charge enough so once ambient temp gets over about 30 degrees. It pretty much becomes useless especially in traffic / town. Out on the highway its ok.
First I tried putting cowlings around everything. This just gave the motor overheating issues.
I removed the cowling around the radiator / large thermo.

After some advice from a local Automotive AC tech. It turns out that low profile aftermarket thermofans are sh*t at moving air the way OEM fans are. It all has to do with the blade shape and when it comes to RPM faster isn't necessarily better.

So to "help" the problem I have put in a latching relay system on the high/med/low switch, when the high pressure switch is triggered it disconnects the compressors clutch, but doesn't engage again until the medium pressure switch opens. Rather then going one and off once every few seconds when set only on the high switch.

I also have moved the radiator slightly so I could fit in a engine driven fan from a Mitsi Galant. Its a nylon fan that used to have a viscous clutch. I removed the clutch and made a solid hub to the fan sits "around" the water pump pulley and not "in front" of it. Its a pretty close shave missing the belts behind it by less than 5mm.
I am yet to fit cowling around this fan but its on the cards.

I am also working on installing a Vac/Air pump from a toyota corona to vac the crankcase as I have never had my crankcase ventilation right. I tried different methods including a road draft tube and a exhaust evacuation venturi but with limited success. I never wanted to hook it up in the traditional sense as my intake manifold doesn't have the correct connection and I wasn't keen on sucking the crankcase gasses back through my nice clean valves.

I finally finished my mag centers

Mag Center in CNC mill.
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Action Shot
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Completed center "Engraving" alone took 2.5 hours per center
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Wheel in CNC mill to open center out to suit the locator on the center and to drill and counterbore the bolt holes to secure the centers to the wheels
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Locator has been pressed into the back of the center
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Wheel on car with center. I made 2 sets of centers one with a personalized logo and on with the Datsun logo.
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Set of mags with centers. I would part with these but I doubt it anyone would want to make it worth my while. They will probably go straight to the pool room.
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Last edited by Snarfty on Thu Mar 21, 2013 11:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 1:23 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2012 12:51 pm
Posts: 50
Location: Perth, WA
Nice wagon.

Jeez those center caps took a bit of work, but the result is great.

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My Garage:
200B '80 GX Wagon - Sold
B310 '80 GL Sunny - Sold
PA10 '79 GX Stanza - Sold
http://www.maddat.com.au/

Do it in a Datsun!


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 5:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2003 4:35 pm
Posts: 186
Location: Brisbane, Australia
CNC'd jelly bean mags. Now I've seen it all!

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1969 Datsun 510 2 Door Sedam - FJ20ET, GT2876R, Haltech, R200 (Street Car All Rounder)
1981 Datsun 910 Bluebird GX Sedan - VQ30DET, GT35R, Jatco (Project Drag - Street 10sec Car)
2011 VW Amarok Highline TD400i


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 10:58 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:48 am
Posts: 51
Location: Toowoomba
Thought I'd throw up a few photos of the Vac Pump setup on my spare motor. I made a dual pulley for the front of the Alternator to allow me to bring a belt from the alternator up to the pump a new pulley has also been made for the pump as its original pulley was a poly V type.

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Bit more work to be done to the brackets at this stage.


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