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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2016 9:50 pm 
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Keep the updates coming Tim, fantastic work.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 10:03 pm 
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Location: melbourne
KiKiIchiBan wrote:
Inspirational build. Mine (like most) is rusted in the same areas. Good to see one apart and how it's been put back together to give me an idea of what I'm going to face. Keep up the good work.
hailest wrote:
Keep the updates coming Tim, fantastic work.
thanks guys,

Plenty of action going on, will have to do a super update shortly..

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 12:52 am 
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Location: melbourne
Alright I'll start off with brief run down of the rotisserie,
I bought the mounts from a ozdater, then bought 2 second-hand heavy duty engine stands to modify.


[ img ]

The blue one required heightening, extra strengthening and mount mods.
In short, i cut it in half, filled the center with a taller steel piece, welded it all up


[ img ]
The big orange one is great as it it didn't need heightening, i just needed to chop of the rotating tube and weld it to my rotisserie mount.


Getting it on the mounts on my own was a challenge :?

[ img ]

That first tip and you start to picture it all coming crashing down :giggle:
[ img ]
[ img ]


Then began stripping the underbody , even with a rotisserie it is a long, messy, terrible job. But worth it in the end :D


[ img ]

mmm JDM crud

[ img ]
[ img ]
[ img ]
[ img ]

[ img ]

I them seam welded every single join... the front rails, rear rails, around the strengthening boxes on the side, all along the step in the middle that joins the front to the rear, you get the idea, everywhere :)
[ img ]


I then sprayed it with the stone-guard/body-deadener stuff as recomended by my local paint guy, came up real nice
[ img ]

I think I used 5 cans in the end, gave it a few coats, comes out real thick.

[ img ]
[ img ]

Then started running new fuel lines, gone with 3/8 aluminium, for both feed and return. I'm still wanting a relatively standard SR setup to begin with, but I'm trying to build the car in preparation for any future upgrades I decide to do ie e85

The lines are still a work in progress, I still need to get some clamps too. I ran them through the original spot in the bay, through the drivers wheel-well.
[ img ]

[ img ]

REAR GUARDS MOD

Those who have ran wide wheels on a 510 are familiar with the inner guard bump if your car is to low.
Before the car was flipped I did this mod but it was alot easier with the car upside down and I could finish it off properly.
Basically i cut a large cross, bent it flat then welded it up.

The icypole sticks is just an indication of where the 'bump' should have been. Nothing too extravagant but it will be enough for the tyre to tuck in the guard when the car squats

[ img ]


I also obviously rolled the lip and gave the guard a light push with the jack :giggle:

[ img ]

Then finished it with the stoneguard

[ img ]
[ img ]

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 1:17 am 
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Location: melbourne

COILOVERS


Some of you may have seem a 3min vid I put on FB detailing what was involved, better than pics but here are the pics too!

Started with 240k struts
[ img ]

Then shortened the strut approx 1 inch to match the shorter shock
[ img ]


That piece you see on the bench was taken out of the strut tube, this is so you still have the thread at the end to tighten in the shock.
[ img ]
[ img ]

[ img ]

Then welded on the coilover sleave
[ img ]

specs
240k strut
HSD coilover kit
T3 camber tops
Verada discs- machined/redrilled
BMW 4 spot calipers- rebuilt
KYB Z31 shocks



[ img ]
[ img ]

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 10:31 am 
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Location: San Francisco, CA
Bloody hell this is great!

Are you in the trade? This is incredible work for a guy in his garage

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1971 Datsun 1600
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 11:13 am 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Awesome Tim. Looks like you are starting your collection of goodness.
What are you doing with the R200 in terms of CV joints/drive shafts etc.?

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 9:52 pm 
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Location: sydney
Still looking great mate keep it up


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 8:36 pm 
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Location: melbourne
sutho510 wrote:
Still looking great mate keep it up
Hatchman wrote:
Bloody hell this is great!

Are you in the trade? This is incredible work for a guy in his garage
Cheers guys, no not in the trade, have an office job lol
SR20Datsun wrote:
Awesome Tim. Looks like you are starting your collection of goodness.
What are you doing with the R200 in terms of CV joints/drive shafts etc.?
Still not sure about the diff & axels :? What's the easiest way to get this to work, get the 510 shafts modified/shortened?


Somehow I've got 4 diffs in my garage, and I'm not fully convinced on any of them,

Standard open r160
I then bought a Wrx LSD r160 but then discovered it was 3.54 ratio, not my ideal ratio, want more launch
Then a Wrx r160 in 4.44, discovered it was open, I assumed they were all lsd
Then picked up the open r200, in 3.7

I'm now thinking of picking up an open r180 to get me by while I save for a decent setup being r200 CLSD 3.9 or 4.1 cvs ect

Hmm decisions

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 8:57 pm 
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Location: sydney
R200's are definitely the go for a sr20 they can cop a hiding


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 9:53 am 
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I think you'll be very happy with the 3.7
Trent (Hailest) has a 3.7 in his and he loves it.
A good ratio and close to the factory.

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viewtopic.php?t=6579
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 8:05 pm 
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Location: melbourne
A keen eye would have also noticed I've bought paint supplies
[ img ]

I've gone with the stock Nissan diamond blue in 2pac[ img ] which is found on the '68 as seen below
[ img ]

I did a test panel over the weekend..

[ img ]
[ img ]


100% happy with the color, however there are a several minor specs of dust, despite my thorough clean and prep.
I'm researching now on how to fix this and many sand it back with wet 1500, can anyone advise if they have done this?
The condition on how I get this fuel cap will decide if I paint the car myself or not.
I'm using very basic cheapo compressor and gun.
:D

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 8:25 pm 
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Depends where the dust is coming from.
You either have to remove it with prep work using a sticky cloth (buy them at a paint suppliers)
Airborne dust is the killer. That's why most people do all the prep work and not worry about it, but the final coat is done in a booth with all the trimmings (filters etc.). It doesn't cost much to hire a booth for a day if you know someone. Schedule it for their down time.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 11:25 am 
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Location: Melbourne, VIC
Super nice work mate, love the clean underbody

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2016 10:35 am 
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Location: NSW Sydney
ah man I wish I was up to where you are I’m still chipping away at rust repairs. I’ll just have to work harder for my stubby holder :thumbsup: did you just use paint stripper for the under body deadener?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2016 6:01 pm 
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Stowers wrote:
ah man I wish I was up to where you are I’m still chipping away at rust repairs. I’ll just have to work harder for my stubby holder :thumbsup: did you just use paint stripper for the under body deadener?
Haha yes, I still have have unfinished rust repairs on the shell. Also I haven't touched the front guards which need attention. I've also got twice as many doors as you which require small repairs :giggle:

For the underbody yes I used stripper and a paint scraper, takes a long time, not fun.


Update on my car soon.. Rotisserie is sold off, car is on stands.

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