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 Post subject: NAD015 1972 datsun 1600
PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:06 pm 
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thought id add up my 1600 to the members rides section. didnt bother putting it up before because i really havent done anything with it yet.

ive had it for around 5 years, and its mainly just sat in the shed. as i just never had the time or $ to do anything with it. as house renos and having kids basically deplete all of the above. ha ha.

but with a good chunk of the house done its about time i got the datto back on the road.

i did have it registered for one year but didnt continue the rego when it ran out.

anyway its a 1972 model. pretty much stock with most of the original parts still there. original L16 & 4 speed, original wheels, interior and also the original antartica white paint which is a good thing as most body work nasties arent hidden.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:22 pm 
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when i did have i registered for that one year a couple of days before the rego ran out some dude backed into me at a car park and done this
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i was definately pissed off, but i did get out of it alright and as it turned out i got a pair of brand new nissan tail lights out of it. and it all got repaired under insurance.

and heres the repaired panel(which now has a chip out of the paint, doh, but thats an easy fix)
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 10:09 pm 
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the "mods" i have done so far are replaced the original 72' model hubcaps
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with some earlier style caps, as i like the style of the early ones. the originals have had more hits than elvis but ill do a full restore on the original pieces when i get a chance. there definately fixable.

had to replace the old single circuit brake master, it was just frozen solid.
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i had a 200b booster and master handy, so as a quick fix i put that in. but im looking to get rid of the ugly ass thing and fit a jap spec stanza booster when i can get one.
the 200b booster contacts the the original clutch master so i fitted a new clutch master aswell as there slimmer than the original.
[ img ]

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 10:26 pm 
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i also removed the original steering wheel for safe keeping
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and added a sunny steering wheel
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you can also see in this pic i removed the original 72' red needle speedo and clock cluster and put in a 70' white needle cluster with factory tacho.

but the factory working am radio is still there pumping through the single dash speaker.
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and i put a map light in i got from tokyo-2-u
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 10:41 pm 
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and about the only other changes were replacing the original lucas points dizzy with an electric dizzy and coil from a s2 bluey changing the 4 speed with a 240k 5 speed, and i recently changed the front struts and brakes to 200b ones as ill be putting an l20b stroker in soon so ill need a bit of an upgrade in the brake and suspension department
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:32 pm 
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as far as engine work for the new l20b setup goes
l20b with v91 head, z24 crank, 87mm pistons for 2.3l capacity, twin 48 webers, L6 flywheel and clutch and id like to run a sr20 5 speed.

started with a s2 bluebird l20b
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heres how the block sits at the moment, just re-bored for the 87mm pistons
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the pistons im running, mitsubishi 87mm clevite pistons with perfect circle rings
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these pistons need to be milled, they will basically be flat tops after milling they need around 2.5mm taken off them, still deciding on compression ratio but will probably run 11-1

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:50 pm 
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z24 crank, you can see the counterweights have been cut down in the lathe so it can spin freely in the l20b block
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and also a bit of clearance work in the block so the rods clear the block with the extra stroke
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and all arp bolts and studs for bolting it all back together, rods bolts, main studs and nuts and head studs and nuts
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thats were im at with the bottom end it should all go in for balancing next week and i measured the deck height of the pistons for milling
the pistons at the moment are hanging out the block around .060". or 1.5mm
if i take 2.4mm off the top that gives me a deck clearance of .9mm and with my head measuring 44cc that gives me a compression ratio of 11-1. and im just not sure if i should push it that much, i think it should be right but especially with the 306 deg cam... hmmmm dilemma

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 10:22 pm 
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with the head and induction im going to run twin 48 dco webers on a datrally style manifold.
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the manifold measures 48mm at the carby end and 38mm at the head end, i got it off ebay and the seller said it was brand new and not ported well it was definitely not used but he definitely
had a bit of a hack at it with a die grinder with no intetion in mind as a couple of the ports were opened up to 39mm and the head end one of the ports is 50mm at the carby end, but it should be o.k it just needs a bit of extra attention.

so the head is a v91 and ported to suit the manifold. so the inlets are 39mm all the way through, with all the meat coming off the port roof so the manifold mounting is raised around 4-5mm
still a little clean up work to do on the head polish the exhaust ports and chambers and get a good rough sruface on the inlets, but the valve guides are back in now so its a little hard, but a part from that the head work is mostly done. in the end i would have liked the inlet guides to be a little shorter with a longer tapper and also not real happy with the blasting work from the machinist he sand blasted it giving it a dull look especially after i was having concerns about the choice of blast media, anyway its not to bad.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 10:36 pm 
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on the exhaust side of things i concentrated on removing the valve guide boss cutting back the short turn, on port 2 and 3 i strait-end the head bolt pinch area and on 1 and 4 strait end the pinch area on the side of the ports as well, didnt really try and make the port any bigger just tried to straiten the flow out and blend the turns into the seat.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 10:49 pm 
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then on the chambers i scribed a line for the fire ring for a guide and unshrouded the valves blended it into the seats and smoothed the rest of the chambers out.
still need to be polished but.
valves are 44mm inlet and 36mm exhaust
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 11:09 pm 
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So much eye candy. Lovin it!


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 8:25 pm 
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while im getting the new l20b ready, decided to do a tidy up of the engine bay. repaint it and do a few rust repairs.

so pulled out the L16 and removed all the front end bits

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bumper off, and first good look at the mangled front valance, the valance is getting removed and straitened out
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the valance on the drivers side has taken a good hit before, doesnt line up with fender
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pasenger side is a bit better
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 8:33 pm 
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head lights, front combos and chrome removed
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everything disconnected from the engine
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and engine gone
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 8:39 pm 
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first repairs are the firewall drain and the front valance.

picture of the firewall drain
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removed the cover off it
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drain behind the cover will be cut out and rebuilt aswell
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valance removed aswell
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 5:28 pm 
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Looking forward to watching your progress, keep the updates coming through. Good luck with it :)

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