Ozdat Home Feature Cars Ozdat Classifieds Event Calander Links Trade Link Tech Resource Merchandise Donate Web Mail
It is currently Fri Mar 29, 2024 12:40 pm

All times are UTC+11:00




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 75 posts ]  Go to page « 1 2 3 4 5 »
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: Shawn's new old 1600
PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:04 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:44 pm
Posts: 171
Location: Northern NSW / Queensland
Got sick of the high idle since the coolant lines are not hooked up to the IACV. I've blocked off the inlet pipe to the IACV and set the idle with the screw on the throttle body. I haven't even checked and adjusted the TPS yet. It needs a little bit of throttle pedal to start from cold now - I'll see what it's like in the morning to start and run.
No doubt I'll soon get sick of the fixed idle with no ECU control and I'll be pull ing the manifold apart to see what I can do to sort out the coolant pipes for the IACV. I'd disconnected them when we got the car due to corrosion on some of the fittings.


Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Shawn's new old 1600
PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 8:18 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:44 pm
Posts: 171
Location: Northern NSW / Queensland
You know how you can drive around town and the SR20DET will be sucking and blowing and making noises that turn heads, and it sounds pretty damned good when you get to overtake some slow-coach on the highway? It sounds pretty good and is very satisfying through some tight twisty roads using low gears when you can keep the revs up and well up out of that turbo lag range. Right?

Well none of that matters after you get to have a good fang on a dirt road - using the engine at full revs for a few corners and a bit of straight road, working the throttle and brakes. The engine just screams out "this is what I was made for! "
And you know what, when driven like that it still manages to sound like a Datsun. Very memorable.

I'd have liked rally tyres of course, and I don't fancy a long life of the stock standard motor when driven like that for any period of time though... But worth every second


Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Shawn's new old 1600
PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 11:40 pm 
Offline
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2004 2:28 pm
Posts: 5357
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Love your work Shawn. There's some good reading in this thread. Keen to see a few photos of the digital read outs you have. They sound like a good bit of gear.

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun


Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Shawn's new old 1600
PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:41 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:44 pm
Posts: 171
Location: Northern NSW / Queensland
Fitted remote central locking, the Response LR-8842 kit from Jaycar. This solved the issue of the key locks not quite unlocking the car and having to lift the door handle at the same time as unlocking, needing two hands - not cool while carrying stuff. I think this is essentially from wear and tear due to age. I hadn't been able to adjust out this behaviour. The added benefit will be the old key and lock not wearing out so much anymore, and giving the impression that it might not be so easy to break in or steel this old heap.

The instructions are minimal to non-existent, but adequate considering every single installation is going to be custom. There's an "immobiliser" switch and wiring included and their wiring diagram doesn't make any sense since it'd be unlikely to actually disable the car at all... I didn't need that anyway.
There's some wires off the central locking unit I didn't need for power windows, sunroof and trunk (that reminds me, will have to get a Trunk Monkey one day :lol: ). Also includes two remotes and all the fitting hardware.
While you're out and about getting your remote central locking kit, also check your doors and door frames for holes suitable for running wires through (or drill them) and get some grommets and heat shrink. I'm going to get one of those kits of body parts remover tools one day for the Jesus-Clips ("Jesus! Where did that go?" or "Jesus! Why won't that freakin thing come out?") :lol: in the door hanles and window handles. A couple of my door handles needed a bit of work to get off, and needed glue and all sorts of things removed from the splines and returned to original condition to get them to fit back on properly later. They'd always been like that and now I've fixed them properly.

My advice would be to run all the wiring and mount the control unit first, then mount the solenoids in the doors - this is so you can connect the solenoids to the wiring before fixing the solenoids in place as the connectors are extremely difficult to get to once the solenoids are fitted. I used some heat shrink over the wiring where it ran across mid-air between the body and doors. Arrange the wiring so it will twist if possible and not kink when the doors close - if it comes out of the body at a low point, run it up vertical a bit and into the door so the vertical length will just twist a bit rather than kink or fold. Those amongst you with electrical experience will realise the "electrico-mechanical" units are not actually solenoids, but small 12volt DC motors with a gear and a toothed bar - but I'll keep calling them solenoids since they have that simple push/pull motion. Probably Actuator is a better word, but what the hell...

Rear door solenoid fitted
[ img ]

I wanted to test a solenoid first to make sure every thing worked and the door would actually lock and unlock, so I fitted up a solenoid to a rear door (easiest to get at, least impact if it all goes bad) and temporarily rigged up the wiring. All worked as expected, so I continued on fitting the rest of the solenoids. The drivers door solenoid has an inbuilt switch and extra wires so unlocking or locking the door manually also triggers the rest of the solenoids. There's two wires that go the existing left/right indicator wires to flash the indicators. I connected them into the mutipin connector between the under-dash wiring and the steering column - my connector there is a normal off the shelf 6way one, not the standard datsun connector since I threw them and all the standard wiring away in the bin a long time ago.

The front door internal-door-handle-operating-bar needed a bit of bending so it didn't hit against the lock rods. Note that as standard it already hit against the standard lock rod, but with the added bulk of the solenoid connection clamp I though I'd best make it operate without clashing. You can see in the pic where I'd had to straighten the bar a bit and rebend it - using the old 1912 pliers (and cheap nasty modern day vice grips and multigrips). You have to undo the two screws holding the inner door handle pivot in place to modify the bar. The photo with flash makes it look a bit of a dogs breakfast but in reality the bends looked bettter than in the photo (true!).

Front door inner handle operating bar needs "adjustment"
[ img ]

Solenoid fitted and push/pull rod in front door
[ img ]

Solenoid mounting in front door
[ img ]

THIS is a real set of pliers made in 1912, that's a full size no.3 philips screw driver there for comparison
[ img ]

The push/pull rods that come with the kit need a bit of dog-leg bend so they pull straight on the original mechanism, and cut to size.

I wired the power up to the battery-side of the battery cutoff switch, so the remote locking will work even if the battery key is removed. I took the opportunity to replace the battery cut-off switch too, since the old one was sometimes not working well enough to handle the starter motor current.

Been into town and back a couple of times, the dirt roads and bumps didn't cause any false triggering, and all still works as expected. The bitumen roads have the worse bumps, it's easier for me to go faster on the dirt roads.

A prize to anyone that can correctly guess the number of non-standard holes drilled on the inside of all my doors, and you can see in the photos there's LOTS ! Prize may be a non-working datsun 180b brake booster shipped at the winners expense

_________________
'71 Datsun 1600, SR20DET red-top
Mostly OK, needs typical rust and panel work.


Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Shawn's new old 1600
PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 3:55 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:44 pm
Posts: 171
Location: Northern NSW / Queensland
We have the standard 1600 brake drums on the rear.
One rear brake adjuster had been siezed since we got the car and it's probably been seized longer than my son has been in this world.

I'd been using different sized "wedges" to adjust the left side brake shoes. Those with standard brake drum experience will know the wedges I mean (inside the adjustment mechanism) and will also know how the adjuster gets rounded off since it suits about a 1/4 inch spanner (or more commonly a shifter)

Naturally, the adjuster was rounded off and siezed in the housing.
Dad pulled it all out for me while I was busy on other jobs.

Round 1: stick it in the vice and struggle with it - no go!

Round 2: let it roast in the BBQ or 15mins or so at full heat, about 300 degrees. Once back in the vice, the adjuster was freed without too much drama.

The whole assembly was eventually all pulled apart without destroying the threads in the adjuster housing and it went back together with a spare adjuster thingie (like a bolt with a pyramid on one end and four small flats on the other end for a shifter). The other side, although done before, was also cleaned and checked and recieved it's regulation amount of nickel anti-sieze.
Rear brakes now adjust correctly as intended by the manufacturer!

_________________
'71 Datsun 1600, SR20DET red-top
Mostly OK, needs typical rust and panel work.


Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Shawn's new old 1600
PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 11:42 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:44 pm
Posts: 171
Location: Northern NSW / Queensland
Here's my speed sensor interface circuit for those interested.
It suits any reluctor pickup such as in the S13 5sp gearbox to suit SR20DET red-top.
Most electronic speedos will probably take the sensor input without this circuit, this circuit is for use where you have something custom in mind. Or for some reason you cant get the pre-built adapter from PLMS.

It works quite reliably so far - I tried many different designs based on chips that were meant to take a reluctor input and found there was way too much false triggering and noise - giving crazy speed readings. I stuck with the old fashioned discrete components and transistor approach, and added a 74C14 inverter to keep the signal clean and ensure enough drive to run a speedo or to get the signal all the way across the dash to the ECU.
During testing of other less reliable circuits, I disconnected the vehicle speed signal to the ECU since the false triggereing and noise were causing the ECU to think I was doing several thousand km/h and cut spark and fuel - not cool. I've left it disconnected since the ECU is "stand-alone" and I don't read any data out of the ECU, it seems to work just fine without the vehicle speed input.
You may need to add a freuquency divider circuit to suit whatever the ECU expects, I read somewhere to use divide by 16 but I've not tested it. Any electronic speedo should be able to be calibrated to suit whatever frequency you're thowing at it.

For the pipe-stress formula nuts:
The "Car Display" LED module I use as a speedo seems to have a resulution of about 0.1Hz or .001Hz (can't remember now), so the figure it returns relating to the input frquency from the speedo circuit is I think about 10 or 100 times the actual frequency. To give me a accurate km/h reading with 3.7 diff and 195/50R15 tyres this is the formula in use:
km/h = 2126xF^2 +3600xF +0.5
It's almost but not quite a linear relationship, the low speeds are where the reluctor pickup becomes a bit strange, but that's only below about 10km/hr. I've got a "+.5" in there to round up.
The calibration and formula turned out to be quite accurate as far as I can test with a few different GPS's and phones = what I see on the display is probably exactly what police are going to see on their radar gun. So there's no room for error like with an ordinary analoge speedo where you know it's a bit wrong and over-reading, leading you to do about 65km/h indicated on the speedo in the 60 zone.
My setup means you must do exactly or below the posted speed limt.
- 40km/h on the display is really 40km/h road speed
- 60km/h on the display is really 60km/h road speed
- 100km/h on the display is really 100km/h road speed
and so on...


Attachments:
[ attachment ]
speedo_interface.png [ 27.41 KiB | Viewed 9844 times ]

_________________
'71 Datsun 1600, SR20DET red-top
Mostly OK, needs typical rust and panel work.
Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Shawn's new old 1600
PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 12:15 pm 
Offline
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2004 2:28 pm
Posts: 5357
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Bloody awesome.
It's a shame pete from PLMS is so busy...

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun


Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Shawn's new old 1600
PostPosted: Fri Jun 26, 2015 8:01 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:44 pm
Posts: 171
Location: Northern NSW / Queensland
Haven't done much to the car lately, changed the fuel filters and moved the EFI filter from the engine bay (near the steering box) to under the car at the rear cross member. I put some protective material around the metal can to avoid stone damage.


Last edited by xfacta on Sat Jun 27, 2015 8:27 am, edited 1 time in total.

Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Shawn's new old 1600
PostPosted: Fri Jun 26, 2015 8:07 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:44 pm
Posts: 171
Location: Northern NSW / Queensland
Got a bunch of parts off a guy that competed in the Repco Round Australia rally in a 180B. The parts were from his sons 1600 rallying days.
I'm going back for more soon, so I'll be one of those on OZDAT with a shed load of sundry stuff.


Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Shawn's new old 1600
PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 8:49 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:44 pm
Posts: 171
Location: Northern NSW / Queensland
Also recently I replaced the rubber turbo outlet elbow, it was getting old and perished and looked like it was going to split at any moment. Got a black silicon type 90 degree elbow.
Also picked up a straight silicon section and cut the steel 2in pipe between the turbo and intercooler. It was standard exhaust pipe and not quite bent correctly so it was knocking on the body near the chassis rail and stressing the turbo outlet elbow. I cut the pipe midway and fitted the straight silicon section which allowed it all to go back together nicely. The car actually sounds quieter now.
I also slightly relocated the air filter and AFM to fit in the new Narva high beam lights, that protrude more into the engine bay than the old sealed beams. This had the side effect of allowing the air filter to be more easily removed for cleaning. It's the conical pod style copy of a K&N.
As far as I know the pod style filter is allowed in Queensland so long as it's properly fixed in place and not just dangling. I've been thinking about building an airbox anyway...


Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Shawn's new old 1600
PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 8:14 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:44 pm
Posts: 171
Location: Northern NSW / Queensland
Well I can vouch for the two little 12v electric hair dryers stuck up under the demister vents. It was the first time I used them ín anger and they did well, altough noisy.
They draw a fair bit of current, so use a relay - I also made good use of the standard fan switch.


Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Shawn's new old 1600
PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 8:55 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 8:38 pm
Posts: 1135
Location: straya
I used a demise fan for same thing, hair dryers woukd be way better. Good stuff.


Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Shawn's new old 1600
PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:12 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:44 pm
Posts: 171
Location: Northern NSW / Queensland
Hit a roo. A small amount of work to do on the front right. Thankfully new headlights not broken but indicator/parker lense is. Will check it out more in daylight.


Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Shawn's new old 1600
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 12:26 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 3:12 pm
Posts: 1093
Location: SUNSHINE COAST QLD
Bummer

_________________
68 510 - soon to be restored into a replica 68sss
69 510 - current build - L20b turbo
91 GT turbo legacy
GET THAT DATSUN DIFFERENCE!


Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Shawn's new old 1600
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 7:35 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:44 pm
Posts: 171
Location: Northern NSW / Queensland
Straightened it all out fairly easily - back in action. Silasticed some plastic from a milk bottle over a bit of missing indicator/parker lense till I get a replacement.
Luckily the bumper just flexed and only put a mark on the right front guard, thankfully it wasn't bolted to the guard or that would be bent.


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 75 posts ]  Go to page « 1 2 3 4 5 »

All times are UTC+11:00


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to: 

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited