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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 12:05 am 
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updates...

I think I have the gear crunch sorted now. I put the diff bracket in the proper way around and new mustache bar bushes with my R160LSD going in as well. that helped a lot to tighten everything up back there.
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then started looking at my gearbox mount as I noticed my engine mounts were a little twisted on the rubber section pointing to a low gearbox mount. I made this one for my CA20 install years ago and just used it for my SR conversion too. anyway I ordered a proper one to go along with the Maddat engine mounts. the box mount was 18mm higher than my mount. this made a big difference to with about 95% of the crunching weirdness disappeared. so nothing to do with the clutch after all :oops:

but now that all lifted the exhaust up and i think thats rubbing on the rear drive shaft as i get an awefull noise when accelerating hardish :(
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got some wheels of Lampy too! the spoke type wheels weren't usually my thing but after putting them on I think they look pretty good so thanks Lampy!
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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 1:16 pm 
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Location: Western Australia
I think the wheels looks pretty tough. Fit perfect as well!

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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 2:53 pm 
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Location: Inner west Sydney
Great looking car!

The flares and those wheels look tuff although I was a big fan of the hubcap + venetian look as well.

It's nice to see quality mods done right.


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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 3:49 pm 
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thanks guys!

yes, the fitment is very good. I can lower it even more and dial out some more camber that will result, as there is room up in those arches as the rear wheels i had before turn out to be about -5 offset not 0 as I thought! (these are +1)

might just leave it though and get to the track again soon. I tried going yesterday but on the way up the FWY I had huge wheel wobble so off to get re balanced tomorrow at a more reputable place (I hope)


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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 11:11 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, VIC
Very neat mate, looking good!

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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 9:04 pm 
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lightness is next to godliness!

just completed putting some extractors on and although they haven't really netted too much power on their own i did get rid of 9kg of cast iron factory pipes and s15 cat in favour of a smaller lighter one. this also gave me more ground clearance. at first i put a 2 1/2 inch centre pipe after the cat but i lost almost every torque the car used to produce, especially at part throttle. so I then wnet to 2" and its much better. still could be better as there does still seem to be a flat spot so I may either reduce the 2 1/2" pipe that is the collector bit to a 2" as well. or I'm thinking of trying to put a butterfly valve in the exhaust from a motorbike to get better low end torque.

I didn't make my own after a lot of great info from this forum, and glad i didn't as its a lot of work just repairing some.

I started with stainless sr20 Autech ones but they were expensive for a complete unit so to be cheap i bought these cut ones for $70!
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then somewhat managed to fix them up. pretty happy with the outcome. welding is a bit dodge looking but its solid and no leaks!
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took my car over the weigh bridge and with half a tank it sits at 960kg. pretty happy as it was 1020kg in its first incarnation shown on page 1.


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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 8:44 pm 
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strange how things go, but after repairing those extractors I found another set in complete condition but this time they had an engine attached to them!
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so I was pretty excited to have this Autech engine, as before purchasing I was costing up building the s14 up to similar specs but that would have cost a fair bit more so pretty happy this came about.

it was a straight forward swap mechanically but the wiring took me a wile to wrap my head around after so many years. i just used the s14 loom that was already connected to power etc which was great but i just had to swap about 5 wires or so on the ecu end to suit the autech ECU.

tada!
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I thought the red would clash with the yellow paint but i think it wo... how does it drive dude? how does it DRIVE! ok, ok. well I was really excited to crank this up, and to hear a slight lope in the idle again brought a big smile to my face as its been maybe 20 years without a lumpy cam in a datsun for me.

before driving I also hooked up a light to the VCT to see when that operated (it comes on at 3000rpm till redline and off at de-throttling even if over 3k still) anyway it was, to be honest a little disappointing. not sure if my hope were too high but I thought 200 hp would be better. it didn't really feel that different to the s14. it does seem to be a bit weird when accelerating like its holding back or something. I''m going to hopefully get a speed sensor input thingy from PLMS. I also have a auto loom with manual ecu and TPS but I don't think that would be causing issues.

anyway its still better but somehow disappointing and maybe I'm a spoilt kid with the bag of candy that's missing the coke bottles. admittedly I haven't driven it that much so still sussing it out. I may put it on a dyno to see what it's giving me one day.

also when the engine was out i decided to make up a steering brace. a 180b box and some brake lines in the way forced me to make instead of buying one.
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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 6:01 pm 
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Hey mate,

nice work. 200HP still must go well in the datto. Looking forward to seeing the dyno results.

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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 10:20 pm 
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Yea,it does, and I think I've been to harsh on my judgement. And missing the point of it which is a very good well tuned engine for the street.

With the VVT The cams have proper overlap only after 3k so under that leaves pleasant street characteristics what with the high compression as well. The transition is so smooth that I felt ripped of in a way when remembering a big cam l20 of 20 years ago that exploded from nothing to everything at 3K+ hence feeling like there was heaps of power with that contrast.

I still need to sort the speed input I believe to get things working properly but really, how can one be disappointed with a well tuned factory engine! Plus I still get to sit in traffic with the car rocking from the idle lope :D

Really need to get to the track now.


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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 1:02 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
I remember thinking my RB20DET HR31 was pretty fast, but you got nothing from 4500rpm until the bloody turbo started making boost and then all the way to 8500rpm it pulled. Problem was it had NOTHING below 4500, and then just a lightly boosted 2 Litre afterwards. Pretty deceptive, but that kick was a bit of fun.

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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 10:00 pm 
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Had some laps at a tuning day at a driver training centre. Nice little track with plenty of turns compared to barbagallo.

I thought my car handled ok but definitely needs some stiffer springs to eliminate some flip flop. I'm running 675lb KDRL02 king springs in the rear with monogas struts. Not really good enough especially I guess with a wider track To help squish the springs up easier.

Any suggestions? im worried a higher spring rate will raise the car up? I guess a shorter spring with the higher rate?

If I had the money some good semi slicks too as each time I went out the first lap was great but after 2-3 they lost so much grip. It was a very tight twisty track so I guess the heat stayed in them with not much time to cool.

Was good enough fun though!


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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 8:46 am 
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What were your tyre temperatures doing?

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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 11:46 am 
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no idea about temps (or pressure :oops: ). I didn't take any gadgetry with me unfortunately but i assume they got hotter and as they are a street tyre (Bridgestone RE002) traction wore off as heat kicked in?

there was more understeer with each lap, especially noticed power understeer just after one tight apex onto the straight. poor driving perhaps!

i can handle the tyres not being up to the task in a way (and my car not being a perfect race car) but i think mostly it was the squat on the rear (including at gear changes) and surprisingly not great turn in (especially on long sweeper) and understeer and body roll through a flip flop section.

i thought it was good on the street with sharp turn in but different world on the track of course.

its still a street car so don't want to go too nuts but I thought something stiffer on the rear would help?


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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 8:50 pm 
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Hey mate, just read your thread, great car,good to see another Datsun hustling on the streets!

Out of curiosity, is it a requirement to run a cat or is it just your preference?


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 Post subject: Re: MangaNOID 1600
PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 12:50 am 
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thanks DATMDC! yes its requirement to run a cat with SR modification.

I have decided to try what i think is right for my driving style and what i want from the car and have some 900lb rear springs on the way. weather its the right [setup] thing to do for a good handling car I don't know but i feel as the driver it's what is needed (stiffer rear springs not the exact poundage)


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