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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 11:06 pm 
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Location: Melbourne
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Patterso ... Accessorie

Heres a good example.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 12:33 pm 
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Location: Western Australia
That above tank looks good. Fairly cheap when the dollar is this good.
It holds a fair bit of oil! With the volume in the lines/filter/cooler and the tank it will nearly be 12+ litres. Quite expensive oil changes when good oil is being used

Most of the dry sump setups have been piped up as shown in the diagram below
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Although i have read many places that you want to limit your crankcase vacume to less than half an atmosphere to stop your seals being sucked in, hence the need for a vacume limiting device on the engine breathers.

the below diagram shows line sizes for a race 2 litre
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One other query i have is where to put the oil cooler. Some people put it on the scavenge lines back to the tank and others put it on the pressure lines before entry into the engine oil gallery.
I would think that on the scavenge lines there would be a large amount of air/ misted oil flowing back to the tank. This is probably not a good medium for heat transfer.
i think im going to put mine on the pressure side of the pump on the way to the engine.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:11 pm 
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Cam,

All looking very good. Its been slow progress for you but not long now!

Question. Did JE make your pistons to spec? Just wondering if they issued a part number for them for future reference. I may just be a little inspired by your build and may need some pistons... :wink:


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 8:05 pm 
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Location: Melbourne
Hey Scott,

Slow is the word... I'll post the part number for you tomorrow. I'll also put the stroke/rod length so anyone can work backwards to achieve correct comp height of piston using the JE part number.

In fact I think I have the part number for Hi comp JE's with an 88mm Stroke. If you offset grind the standard crank and use toyota rods (so much lighter than FJ and H beams as well 540g) it's great 2.2 combo.

Hows the move gone so far? Family setteling in well?


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 9:37 pm 
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Location: Melbourne
Lamy,

I agree 12ltrs of oil would be abit more expensive than normal, but look at it this way. If you have a decant LSD diff you'd be looking at $40 per litre per change. You have most likely spent many more $1000's on engine maybe even just on your oil system so paying $150-$250 per oil change to maintain you investment thats not to bad.

Also as your having 2-3 times the amount of oil going through the engine and you will have 2 oil filters at least you may be able to extent out oil changes. Not 2-3 more times but over time you'll work it out.

Buy the way thats a great diagram (line size) and very useful, it's saved on my desktop to be used later. I'd be putting the cooler between the pump and block for all the reasons you stated. You won't get enough heat transfer trying to cool misty oil and air.

Getting back to your original responce I'll be controlling the crank case pressure with the breather on the head. I'll plumb a gauge into the block and at full revs check the pressure. Desired pressure for me will be around the 4-5 psi mark. Any higher and you right the seals would be sucked in fround and rear!!
I'll control it buy the dia of the hole out of the head.

I'll take some detailed photo's of the pan and oil tank friday and post them for interest sake.

Cheers Cam


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:58 am 
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Location: Canberra
Hey I'm currently doing a dry sump set up for my fj20 turbo in my purple car and i was wondering who made your filter block off on the block as i'd like to get one also....

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 12:35 pm 
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Hi Cam,

Excellent :mrgreen:

Yep kind of settling in. Moving back into our house in Ipswich in a few weeks now as our tenant wanted out early so that worked fine for us. Its also jolly freezing in Stanthorpe! Brrrr....

Reading all your stuff made me realise I should NOT have sold my dry sump pan for my FJ. Weah... :(

Will email properly soon. Have a 200B wags to fix for the inlaws and a U20 to build for them to. Busy busy even though I'm on jolly holidays!

Scott.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:10 pm 
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Location: Melbourne
FIVETEN wrote:
Hey I'm currently doing a dry sump set up for my fj20 turbo in my purple car and I was wondering who made your filter block off on the block as I'd like to get one also....
Hey Mate,

If your talking about remote oil filter earls have a standard L series kit that will bolt onto the FJ or if you mean the pressurte relief vavle block off i'll be making it. If your talking about the later PM your details and i'll send one up to you.

Cam


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:35 pm 
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Location: Melbourne
Scott,

I have the part numbers you need, as JE can be hard to deal with I have afew numbers for you:

Part number: 258537
Custom order number: 8328
Job Number: 575616
92mm bore

Eagle Rods are Toyota 3sgte (MR2 Turbo)
48mm Dia
Rod Length 5.428
Part Number: CRS5428T3D

This Combo suits a 92mm stroke crank and would make around 10.75:1 comp with standard deck height. If your going to offset grind a stardard crank to 48mm pin and 84 stroke you'l have to get the comp height of the piston increased by 3.5mm.**** The valve cut out on these pistons will have room, to safely clear .412" lift inlet outlet with standard valve dia.

***For those reading who are wondering what comp height is, it is the distance from the top of piston the the centre of the L/E pin in the piston.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:50 pm 
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DATTOCAM wrote:
Scott,

I have the part numbers you need, as JE can be hard to deal with I have afew numbers for you:

Part number: 258537
Custom order number: 8328
Job Number: 575616
92mm bore

Eagle Rods are Toyota 3sgte (MR2 Turbo)
48mm Dia
Rod Length 5.428
Part Number: CRS5428T3D

This Combo suits a 92mm stroke crank and would make around 10.75:1 comp with standard deck height. If your going to offset grind a stardard crank to 48mm pin and 84 stroke you'l have to get the comp height of the piston increased by 3.5mm.**** The valve cut out on these pistons will have room, to safely clear .412" lift inlet outlet with standard valve dia.

***For those reading who are wondering what comp height is, it is the distance from the top of piston the the centre of the L/E pin in the piston.

Gday Cam,

If you spent as much time replying to all your followers working on your car it would be finished by now! :wink:

Are you still using "McGregor Engineering" for all your machining? I've heard he has some problems with people "queue jumpimg" at his business. Is this true?

The build looks great. All you need now is a carport to house it from the weather and put the missis car out in the street? I know a chippy if you need his number.

Keep up the good work.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:02 am 
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Location: Melbourne
Hey Rob,
If you could keep your car on the track my engine would be built, but instead your frigging around with new brakes to stop the car hitting trees has taken up KMac Engineering time. As he's as reliable as a kingswood I'm still waiting for the head to be machined for cam clearance. :x

Can't rely on a Scott who drinks VB and plays with datsuns! :shock:

Tell your old man to stay away.... I know where he lives!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVL4BoA4 ... ata_player

Given time you can post a video of me crashing, I'll need to finish it first.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 6:14 pm 
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Just afew engine progress picks.... Oh so close Just need to make a TDC indicator, Washer for the front of the D/S pulley and 2 lifting plates to lower the beast into the car. Oh I also need to space the alternator out 4mm to be inline with the pulley and find a belt to suit.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 7:00 pm 
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Its like a fat version of mine Cam. Me likey!!!!


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 10:34 am 
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Location: Melbourne, VIC
That is pure FJ porn right there, we need a drool emoticon!

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 Post subject: Re: Big Bore Grunter
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 12:01 am 
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Well, it's been close to a year since the last update. A bit of a milestone today the car has been brought home for the first time in 10-12 years! I now have a garage so I'll be able to work from home on it.

Not all family members are that keen having the garage taken up buy "An Old Datsun" but like most things car related she'll start to love it!

Anyway as for progress the dry sump system is plumbed up with all the lines run. (Thanks Mike & Simon @ Power Play) The oil cooler is the only gap in the system. I'm getting race radiators in Dandenong to install an oil cooler in the end tank to the radiator. It will help with heating oil on start up, as well as regulating temp when hot.

There is afew other modifications that need to be done to the rad. The outlet needs to be moved from the rear on the end tank to the side so the oil pump will have clearance. Also I've had to ditch the thermo fan from engine side to grill (pull to push) for clearance of the crack drive hub. Oil lines will now run along back of rad to oil cooler, this means a plate will have to be tig'd to the rear on rad to hold oil lines. Last of all I need to make up threaded alloy Bosses which the oil catch can will mount to, these will also be welded to the rad.

Back to the progress The fuel system is completed as well. When @ power play the guys striped the anodizing off the speed flow fittings to make it look less boy racer and more period. Also they ran hard fuel line through some fittings in the boot.

Next job is getting the dash fitted as well as rear seat. We'll see how long it takes hopefully not 11 months between updates.


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