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PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 11:46 am 
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nick wrote:
MYDATO wrote:
You will need to find another way to vent the boot if removing pilar vents. A build up of fuel vapour and acid vapour could cause explosive issues on a hot day. Lookin good though mate :)
Fuel normally vents through the boot floor. The c-pillar vents are there to exhaust the cabin which gets air from the dash vents...
its also to realease pressure in the cabin when your doors get slammed shut,stop the rear window from popping out

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 9:28 pm 
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i don't think 1600's are that air tight. LOL


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 11:23 pm 
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Location: Albury
Welding up those vents is not going to cause any problems... and by the small remote chance it will, it can be vented through the parcel shelf out out through the bung hole in the bottom of the boot!! The more I check it out, the more I am liking them welded up!!

Went to do some work on it tonight, walked out to the shell, looked at it, though naaaa, F it!! Tomorrow!!

Cheers


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 12:35 am 
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Location: Albury
UPDATE.....

As the shell sits now, great for working on the undercarriage let me tell you!!
[ img ]

The floorpan area in the front had taken a bit hit at some stage... must be jumping crap I'd guess and in doing so both sides was pushed up. The two supports had taken the most punishment, so the badly dinted area was cut out. New plates will be made and welded in. The floor has been beaten back down so it is no longer bowed.

[ img ]

This shows the bowed floor area, which is now pretty darn perfect!
[ img ]

Lastly, these are the two pieces cut out that were badly beaten up.
[ img ]

Also removed the hand brake bracket at the front, no longer need due to floor mount going in. Those two small brackets were removed from the two supports to, no idea what they were there for, but now gone!!

Just a couple of more holes to weld, few welds to be ground down and its off to the blaster!!

Cheers


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 7:34 pm 
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Location: Albury
quick update.. no pictures but shell has been dropped off to be dipped. IN 2 weeks time all I will have is a metal finish on the shell... and hopefully not to many surprises!!!

Starting to get way to eager to have it back on the road!!

Cheers


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 22, 2010 9:40 pm 
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Great work there, keep the pictures coming.

Cheers,

Trent

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 7:08 pm 
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Location: Albury
Well picked up the shell today from being dipped. First impressions are WOW!!! Even though it does cost a little, I will never try and paint strip another shell again. It is bare... not a bloody thing left in it! Am I happy??? Hell YES!!!

Had to get it home quick and into the shed as the weather looked a little crap... When I transport it again I'll take to few pictures and post them up.

Found a couple of more surprises.. nothing to bad... just some shonky piece of sh*t rust repairs that looks like it was done by the mentally handicapped...

Looking forward to progress now.. feels like it starting to go forward now....

Still thinking about colour...... Might try something a little crazy/different, will try on spare boot colours before commit...

The new Subaru satin/pearl white with a gloss white strip like on the HK Monaro's... thick strip with thin strip beside and offset to the passenger side of car... Will do some testing though.... and the paint job is not going to bea backyard type, will be fully professional!

Cheers


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:47 pm 
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do they return the shell to you in bare metal? Or do they coat it with something first to combat surface rust setting in?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:58 pm 
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yeah. you'd want to get that thing primed almost immediately. To make sure its properly weather and rust resilient.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 8:55 am 
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Guys, it gets dipped into a second solution which is a rust inhibitor. You have easily 3 weeks before you need to do anything. Before it can be primed the car needs to be wiped down to remove the film.

As said above, I will never waste my time paint stripping again. The thing is bare.

The shell has been handled also, and now where on the shell is there rust hand/finger prints.

Cheers


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:46 am 
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sounds a lot easier than paint stripper and sanding discs! Any chance of sharing what it set you back?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:54 am 
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Yes spill the beans of the cost please mate :D

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 2:37 pm 
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Bare shell was $1550 cash. It is a lot and many people can say paint stripper is a lot cheaper, but you wont get it this bare.... All I have is metal... and I have no rust at all. It eats it out.

The expensive part is getting the panels done. Each individual panel cost $150. I will be getting them soda blasted.

Hopefully get some photos in tehnext few days.

Cheers


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 2:49 pm 
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I guess you also have to factor in how long it would take you to do it manually, and how much of a pain in the ass it is, so it's probably good value after you weigh it up! Plus you don't get stuck with sand (or any other media) in all the crevices that you have to continually blow out. good job :thumbsup:

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 2:58 pm 
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My only concern (and I'm sure it is addressed, I've never looked into it) is that you'll need to thoroughly rustproof all interior cavities as these would get stripped as well ?

I did mine with paintstripper but was very carefull to not let it get around inside any panels - I even put little squares of masking tape over any holes to prevent this, and just stripped the paint under the tape by hand.

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