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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 4:24 pm 
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Location: Frankston Vic
Mmmm a very good point Dave. Maybe get the shell dip in Gal. Would cost a bit but, your shell would last almost forever.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 7:13 pm 
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Or just do what I did, and put Fish oil in an empty body deadener can and loaded that onto the Shutz gun. And blasted it at 60psi into every seam and cavity I could fit the nozzle or a bit of hose (and most places where I didn't want it to go either). Fixed my rust issues for the inside of the car.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
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Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 7:15 pm 
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Location: Creswick, Vic
Isn't Fish Oil near on impossible to apply paint too though? I guess paint the crevices first then apply fish oil after that?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:16 pm 
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Location: Newcastle, NSW
As I said, I'm sure there are ways around it. Just something to be aware of.

I plan on doing the same (blasting rustproofing everywhere) on my car. My preferred rustproofing is a mix of fishoil and Tectyl. I like the body deadener gun idea.

In the past, I've just cleaned fishoil up with prepsol before applying paint.

I'm looking forward to seeing more body-prep pics. I love seeing resto's done to the standard this one seems to be.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 3:44 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 3:25 pm
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Location: Albury
Well... been to much rain on days off to think about moving the shell.. so still no photos.

I get my new motor tomorrow, looking forward to it. Fully forged S15. Going to add to it a nice GT3071, and Haltech Platnium 1000 ECU.

Does mean I will have to sell my old motor. I will put up in the classifieds very soon... but will consist of S13 motor, 740cc injectors, GT2871r, Nistune, Poncams, clutch, New stainless exhaust manifold not mounted, and a Greddy inlet brand new never mounted. Also the loom to suit 1600. Made 226rwkws, which is not a bad amount in a 1600, very pokie!! Even the exhaust and dump pipe.... as I am replacing it all anyway!!! Motor had no issues when in car.. went a treat.

Not sure on price yet, but for someone wanting to put a SR20 into a 1600... could be a nice easy way out!

CHeers


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:48 pm 
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Location: Peterborough, SA
MYDATO wrote:
Mmmm a very good point Dave. Maybe get the shell dip in Gal. Would cost a bit but, your shell would last almost forever.
i wouldnt stick my Datsun panels in liquid zinc thats heated to 450 degrees celcius......
unless you are looking for the wavy panel look :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 3:43 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 3:25 pm
Posts: 203
Location: Albury
Well I have the new motor...

[ img ]

Brand New Balanced, Lightened And Machined Crank.
King Pro Bottom End Bearings.
BC Racing Forged Rods And CP Racing Forged Pistons.
Cometic Race Series Headgasket.
Gated And Baffled Hi-Capacity Sump.
BC Racing Step 3 Cams
1mm Oversized Stainless Valves And Titanium Retainers
GKtech Rocker Stoppers
Adjustable Cam Gears
Ported and polished

Adding to this very soon will be the GT3071 external gated, 6boost manifold, Greddy inlet, and Haltech Platinum 1000 ECU.

Things are moving closer...

CHeers


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 3:49 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:11 pm
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New motor looks tits, not going to much left originally from the car after you've finished.

Keep the progress going


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 5:22 pm 
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Location: Frankston Vic
Get an engine stand ASAP for your new donk fella. Last thing you want is it taking a topple. $50-$100 from Supershit. Do it!

Very tasty mods by the way :D

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 6:21 pm 
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Location: Albury
Mate.. got a engine stand ut my other SR is on it. I will move it across to the wall and lan it a little towrads it. If if does roll, it will only go as far as the wall.

The block will be repainted and the rocker cover. Might go everything black...

I want around the 300rwkws, so the aove combo should get me there!!

CHeers


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 3:01 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 3:25 pm
Posts: 203
Location: Albury
Well here are some pictures of the shell after dipping.... well its got some etch primer on it now, but you get the drift. I am 110% happy with the dipping. Cleans it up a treat.. all rust gone... more surprises found, but at least I know what I am working with now!

Next car will be dipped as well...

[ img ]

[ img ]

[ img ]

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It looks like I will be going GT3071r external gate top mount with Haltech. WIll it be a pain in the butt for engineering with setup... what will be the issues if any?? I need this sh*t sorted befire I commit to anything... only want to buy once!

Been checking out colours.... Saw a FG XR6 turbo today in that red, "SEDUCE" is the colour. pretty sweet and I think it will really suit the 1600. White might be out.... on my holidays will scuff up my spare boot and get a coat of the stuff on it!!!

[ img ]

CHeers


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 8:57 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 09, 2009 8:34 pm
Posts: 441
Location: sydney
ring an engineer is the easiest way also with the dipping does the place that dipped it offer another dip as a etch coat after all welding has been done.Its looking good keep the pics coming


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 11:36 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 3:25 pm
Posts: 203
Location: Albury
For NSW engineering, who do you guys recommend? I do not want to drive to Sydney (I'm on the Vic/nsw border), but will if I have too... Anyone in Canberra?

Cheers


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 11:57 am 
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Posts: 203
Location: Albury
Also, on wiper motor.... decided to much work to mount under dash so it will be left under the bonnet... BUT.... I want to reduce its size. Does anyone know of a replacement I can get that is smaller?

CHeers


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 7:04 pm 
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Location: w.a
http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/arti ... swap.shtml

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