Awesome.. thats her!!!!! I see the boot didnt line up back then either! Will soon though!!

A lot more has been done to the car last post. Will take some photos this coming week.

I have knocked all the bog out of the left quarter.. found a nice little surprise.

If anybody has a wreck, I am after a small section of the left quarter panel. When I get photos will post up what I am after. The right quarter is all ok!

I love how a paint job can go from just a splash of new paint to absolutely rebuilding everything!

Man I want it back on the road... yesterday!

Cheers

UPDATE

Done a little more than photos suggest, both quarters to metal and the roof paint stripped.

Frame works a treat although have not rotated onto its side yet. Next week.

Found a nice hidden surprise in the left quarter, but unlike the last person, it will not be filled with bog. The section will be replaced.

Next stop will to be take the shell to a mates and have all the non neccessary holes welded up in the engine, cabin, and boot.

Then off to be soda blasted/sand blasted including the under carriage. I am enjoying this project, but man I want it back together!






Cheers

Engine bay, welding holes and smoothing out. Also removed drain panel due to very small amount of rust.


New transmission cover, old one on box behind.


Cut, removed and replaced rear pillar vents with plate. After a smooth look, no badges etc.


My new plates, car will now be known as "WKD-510"

Cheers

Hi Mate!

Geez! Your doing a number on this thing, would love to do the same to mine one-day but would be affraid once I pulled apart i'd never get back together again. Look forward to seeing it painted and re-assembled. Good work

You're not shaving the rear pillar vents are you!?

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

You will need to find another way to vent the boot if removing pilar vents. A build up of fuel vapour and acid vapour could cause explosive issues on a hot day. Lookin good though mate

_________________
1928 Model A CC Pickup

looking good mate the frame worked out well.

reminds me of mine.

Vents look good if you are keeping all the chrome and badges, otherwise they look sweet as smoothed out looking directly at the orange car as i type and it looks perfect.

_________________
FIVETEN-orange 1969 datsun 510
YLD.510-purple 1969 datsun 510

Rexy510... its going to be a good 5months yet until its back together.... chances are I'll forget how to put it back together.... The loom is the only part that will sh*t me, as I am relocating stuff out of the engine like the small fuse box and relays. Also hiding the loom, running it out through the vent hole!

MyDATO..... window down maybe my solution! I would think you'd still smell fuel vapour etc even with the vents there as the vents can move air into the cabin through the 4 vents holes on the inside above the parcel shelf.

I am not a big fan of the plastic vents on the outside. To me they just look cheap, and tacky! Not anymore, they are gone!

The aerial is also getting welded up, and it will run under the wood parcel shelf.

RJB510... yep.. shaved!

FIVETEN.. mate you dont realise how much work you saved me with the frame. It works a treat. Have not turned it over yet onto its side, but will be a piece of piss! I just want the thing back on the road!

I am glad I am doing this rebuild. I have found a few issues, and knowing that they will be fixed and perfect is great. This car looked good as it was, but a think another few years the rust would have taken hold!

I am now at the stage where I am not to sure with the undercarriage. It was to be painted black with a ute tubliner type paint, but now I am thinking I should fully detail underneath as well. This is started to become stupid!!!!

CHeers

Fuel normally vents through the boot floor. The c-pillar vents are there to exhaust the cabin which gets air from the dash vents...

hey ackley improved the build looks good i have a similar tunnel to you and now need to change the gearstick bush you either have to drop the box or cut the tunnel its a prick but does seal good anyhow good luck

Ahh NO! Regardless of what the vents are there for... I would have left them in. But each to their own. Sometimes I like them out, other times not but its looking good so far! You seem to have a good body to work with. Mine has been days on end of welding and grinding and stripping etc. You're gonna have fun with the underside of the car

Have you considered this? I'm basically settled on spraying under my car with Raptor Liner. Which is the Ute Bed liner from U-Pol, and you can get a tint-able version... So it will be same colour as your car. This stuff is pretty damn tough and from what i've seen, it looks alright too.
That's the best of both options I can think of.

Get some colour and some minor detailing happening. Won't come out glossy like the rest of the car but will give it some bling factor and a bit more protection than your generic black.

I wouldn't want a car, unless it was a dedicated show car to be painted underneath. I'd want some sort of stone chip protection. Just my 2c and something to think about.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Spent today checking out where I'll be running the loom..... hidden. Wont be to hard and should look a treat! Cant do much with the ECU loom though, will run it across the firewall and under the lip to make it not as noticable.

Anybody put the wiper motor under the dash? Ugly blody thing under the bonnet... rather hide than paint up pretty.. but if I have to.... it will be painted!

Window washer bottle will be mounted in boot. Radiator overflow... well not having one!!!

Decided to use Rhinoliner in white for the undercarriage...

Cheers

why not run the loom behind the firewall and make it enter the engine bay somewhere less noticeable?

_________________
build-threads.com

I've read of flipping the wiper motor to have it mounted underneath the dash and active the wiper arm spline from the other sidem you can then use any style of wiper motor and upgrade from the old crappy motor at the same time

And as for the wiring? will you be using what is already there or replacing it with new wires? either way, why not get a round 20 pin connector that mounts to the firewall, that way the inside loom stays inside (to the ECU, realys, fuses etc) and then connects to this plug on the firewall, the into the engine bay. That way, most of the wiring is under the dash, and the only visible wiring in the engine bay is just from this plug, so if you ever need to strip engine bay wiring, its a simple job of just unplugging it from the firewall, and not all the relays, fuses and ecu
Do that plus run headlight wiring along chassis rail (or in it) and along strut tops under the guards
The SR20 wiring can be tidied up a bit easily as well, the inlet manifold wiring can be changed to sit under the inlet manifold and not be visible, CAS wiring can be moved, even the O2 sensor wire can be seperated from the main loom and run into the car underneath the floor


All this will require a bit of wire cutting and extrending in parts, re routing other parts completely, and some planning beforehand along with some ingenious solutions, but if you can stuff as much of it under the dash as possible (neatly of course), then straight away, it'll be better

Anth has some good links on his website to engine bay wire tucking, especially on honda forums, those guys are freaks, but i spose, if you drive a FWD, there's no point in modding it for power/handling/burnouts

_________________
http://www.healingchambers.com.au