hey shaun, all good over here mate. Havent really done any work on the car lately, although i did purchse a 3.9 r180 diff. Just saving some money for the amax lsd centre now.

just a quick update...finally got around to doing some more AVCR tuning and am now making consistent boost. I was having a boost fluctuation problem which i thought was a wastegate issue but as it turned out the avcr was factoring in too much correction when it overboosted and as a result lowered the boost limit, which i would then notice the next time i wound her up. As can be expected with the stock sr turbo, im seeing a a peak of 14-15psi which then tapers down to about 12 at redline.
I must say that i am quite impressed with performance and will eat my earlier words of being disappointed. 2nd gear on full boost is definitely a HOOT!!!!! With a little more tweaking, ive managed to make 15psi a touch below 3000rpm which, admittidly is from a small turbo, but also says alot for short cooler piping and good a ebc.

Unfortunately, i have had a couple of hiccups recently. The first being a faulty ball joint which was resulting in an ugly clunk in the front end. Considering the whole front end is only twelve months old, i was a bit suprised but i have heard that excessive camber can cause premature failure of these things, oh well no biggy. My next concerns are some nasty vibrations coming from the rear of the car at high rpm..im guessing a poorly balanced tailshaft and sad diff are to blame. Its funny how quickly a cars weaknesses will appear when it's put to the test.

Faulty ball joint? In what way Tones? Got any photos?
You're running the R31 ball joints aren't you?
Bummer.

Sad diff might be causing vibrations, but most likely is the tailshaft, or the drive shafts.
Wanna go a group buy on CV's?

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

r31 struts on the 200b front end. The faulty ball joint was causing the bottom of the strut to move in and out, replaced it and all is good. Hopefully sending the r180 off for bearings and seals tonight and will get the tailshaft re-balanced suring the week.
As for the CVs, i might hold off until i see how the new diff goes

new parts!!!! whahoooo.....picked up a t28 during the week for a bargain from one of the silvia forums...$250 so within the hour i had the ex manifold and old t25 off to compare. Decided to send the stainless ex manifold off to get HPC coated whilst i sort out oil lines and a new fuel pump. Here is a pic of the 25 and 28, i was quite surprised with the difference in size between the two.

Nice Tones.

Got any photos of the back of the Turbos?

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
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#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Go check your uni's/crossjoints..

I have broken both sides.. Now have custom CV's..

Nice thread and nice car Datones..

I love the fender rolling Bat


My initial experience when I first drove my converted datto was..

But now I'm so used to it it feels slow..

Can't wait to get Z32 AFM, 550 Injectors, Poncams, and GT2871R..

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Indo Dats got 8005T!!

http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10205
http://www.youtube.com/user/simarkbotak

Tones just a quick question, what did u do with you petrol filler? did u convert it to a unleaded version and if so what sort? got any pics? cheers tim
Love the car by the way

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1972 Datsun 1600

hey tim,
one of the engineer requirements was an unleaded filler. I grabbed one from a xf (i think) falcon, cant remember if it was a ute or panelvan. Had to make a few mods for it to fit, but it matches up to the 1600 tank pretty good. Its a steel item that basically just replaces the original 1600 rubber fiiller. A bit hard to see in the pic

finally got my manifold back from getting HPC coated and installed the t28. Went for a quick squirt and boost tune....awesome!!!!!!!! 180kph at the top of fourth and there is a still another gear.

Nice Tones.

Was the HPC coating expensive?

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

progressed a little further today with my quest to reduce under bonnet temps. Wrapped the dump pipe during the week with copper heat wrap and then today i finished off the aluminium heat shield for the front part of the headers. After experimenting with all three types of heat retention, i can only confirm that wrapping and aluminium shield pass the touch test. The HPC stainless manifold still release a crazy amount of heat...so much that you can feel it through the bonnet. It is not only the bonnet paintwork i am concerned about, the cooler pipe from the turbo runs alongside the headers and also gets damn hot. Unfortunately the factory heat shields dont fit with the stainless manifold, so ive had to rustle up something myself.

god damn you hahaha youhave just made me want to fix my 1500 up and drive that around:P sooo not cool hahaha but on the other hand who else in west aus has a nicer 620 as myyyy one haha(bit up meself lol) i love the colour of ur datto ey

Tones,

In that second photo, it looks like someone has dropped an oil catch can over your manifold. You might wanna move that before you start driving...

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

its actually a flux capacitor!