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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 10:24 pm 
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Location: Gosnells, WA
The BMW light conversion being reffered to is the Ellipsoid Head lights from an E34 (?) Bimmer. Still haven't been able to track down the exact model and whatever, which would be needed unless you have the BMW parts catalogue in front of you. Got some conflicting information from google searches, some BMW owners reckon they were crap, found references to them in the M series only, got a bit bored with it all and put it into the "Later" pile. From what I understand they are HID lights, they don't fit quite right, you need to swap outers to inners unless you like the idea of attacking the inside of the front guards with a mallet.
Looks pretty cool though..

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:58 am 
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Location: Ballarat Vic.
I've Taken 3 1600's that I have owned down to the local autolec and for only $120 he fits relays, landing globes (100w $20 each), labour the lot. This set up also increases the outer low/high beam globes aswell. Were alot brighter than my 4x4 with IPF driving lights & 120w high beam.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 11:31 am 
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That is flippin fantastic.
I might consider something like that to neaten up the wiring in my car.
I fitted relays for the aircraft landing lights for my car, but i'm no auto electrician :P :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 7:23 pm 
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Location: Creswick, Vic
Is everyone aware that datsuns run a 12volt negative ground elec system, unlike most cars (i think most run positive ground, is this correct?).
I was charged $200 to fit relays and circuit breakers to make my 100wt H4 and H3 light upgrade. and then soon after sold my car to "Felony".
They would light up upto 1km ahead, it was awesome for late night rally bashing.
Does anyone know how to do this themselves as i don't wanna fork out 200 again.

Oh, i was also told i'd need to upgrade my alternator (by another auto elec), but this is bulldust as it worked fine.
Also, i have a set of 4 BMW/Hella headlights, 100wt each. From a '79 model 6cyl. I think a 523? but not sure. They fit datsun light frames. If anyone interested, send me a PM.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 7:47 pm 
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Location: Adelaide.
I think every car since 1966 has run a negative earth system.

Upgrading the headlight wiring is reasonably straightforward, sounds like you were made a shareholder in that guys new car/motorbike/holiday :shock:
Once you understand what needs to be done, it can be achieved fairly simply.
One method is to have a new harness that simply plugs into the old headlamp sockets.
It then operates high current relays to power the appropriate lamps.
The advantage, is that it is truly a plug and play system, plus all the OEM wiring and switches only have to handle ~200mA to operate the high current relays :D :D
Get the relays to do all the hard work, that is the key 8)
Oh, and lamp wattage is NOT the last word.
There are inserts now that produce much more VISIBLE light , in the right spectrum, and draw moderate current.
For example: -
http://db.hella.com.au/cgi-bin/catalogu ... flrecid=20
Also, there are legal limits on headlamp wattage, don't get caught blinding the rest of the planet :oops:
HID [High Intensity Discharge] systems are not entirely the answer either apparently :?

Upgrading the alternator is a fairly simple exercise too, but you need to understand a few things about that.
First, the cars original wiring is rated and therefore [hopefully] protected for the standard alternator output, for example 45A.
Upgrading to a unit which is capable of 90A output has the inherent capacity to overload the existing wiring UNLESS that wiring is also is suitably upgraded or piggybacked with wiring of sufficient gauge to do the job.
If for example you fit a zillion megawatt sound system to a 1971 Datto, with a 120A alternator, you can simply run new power feeds and auxillary relays to the amp etc and everyone is happy 8)
Try running the system from the existing wiring and you won't have to wait long for the fireworks :oops:
Second, if you upgrade the alternator, because you can, then you MUST fit some maxi fuses to protect that 30+ year old wiring.

Also, an alternator needs to get above a critical RPM value to start outputting some serious grunt.
If you are wanting lots of power at idle, for whatever reason, that will take a fairly big sucker of an alternator and LOTS of adequate circuit protection.
Think Highway Patrol, stationary car, engine running, radio on, A/C on etc. etc. etc. :twisted: :twisted:
As the actress said to the Bishop, you MUST have adequate protection :D

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 3:54 pm 
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Location: Canberra
Seems like everyone is ignoring the design/shape/quality of he parabola itself as a factor in light output/range and quality.
I would have thought it to be one of the most important.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/csr.html

Have a read of this article. Shame you cannot get them in Oz. Anyone know a cibie distributor????

cheers

James


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:49 pm 
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I run lenses out of early bmw's. they are h1 and made by hella, trade price is 80 or so each new :shock:.

Running 2 100w for normal driving and another 2 100w for high beams lol.

Cost me around 90 or so to convert. 60bucks for 4 lenses from centre road wrecker and another 30 in wire, tape, relays, globes and crimp terminals.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 1:24 pm 
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Location: Queanbeyan
jimmmy wrote:
Seems like everyone is ignoring the design/shape/quality of he parabola itself as a factor in light output/range and quality.
I would have thought it to be one of the most important.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/csr.html

Have a read of this article. Shame you cannot get them in Oz. Anyone know a cibie distributor????

cheers

James
I had a chat with my local Cibie agent years ago when I bought my Oscar SC, which use the same reflector pricipal, about the csr headlights. Apparently the highbeam would be fine since it's not LHD specific, however the lowbeam is which means it's not legal, or safe, in Australia. Since they work best as a matched set the local importer wasn't going to bother bringing them in. Oh yeah, if you click on the link you would notice a question about high wattage globes in csr lights. What they forgot to mention was the Oscar SC and csr use resin, plastic, reflectors so they don't cope very well with the heat from high wattage globes. I've damaged the reflectors on mine from running 100w globes for years, now I run 55w Narva +30 I think. They're going on my 720, and are actually test fitted in my thread in the memembers rides.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 8:43 pm 
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Location: Canberra
irsa76 wrote:
jimmmy wrote:
Seems like everyone is ignoring the design/shape/quality of he parabola itself as a factor in light output/range and quality.
I would have thought it to be one of the most important.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/csr.html

Have a read of this article. Shame you cannot get them in Oz. Anyone know a cibie distributor????

cheers

James
I had a chat with my local Cibie agent years ago when I bought my Oscar SC, which use the same reflector pricipal, about the csr headlights. Apparently the highbeam would be fine since it's not LHD specific, however the lowbeam is which means it's not legal, or safe, in Australia. Since they work best as a matched set the local importer wasn't going to bother bringing them in. Oh yeah, if you click on the link you would notice a question about high wattage globes in csr lights. What they forgot to mention was the Oscar SC and csr use resin, plastic, reflectors so they don't cope very well with the heat from high wattage globes. I've damaged the reflectors on mine from running 100w globes for years, now I run 55w Narva +30 I think. They're going on my 720, and are actually test fitted in my thread in the memembers rides.
you can get both RHD and LHD reflectors so should be right there.

They CSRs are suppossed to produce more light with a 55 watt globe than the same hella, autopal, narva etc with a 100 watt or more globe. Plus you get the benefit of not having to run massive cable, bigger relays etc. I did this anyway when rewiring my car.

cheers

James


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 4:05 pm 
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Location: Creswick, Vic
Quote:
I think every car since 1966 has run a negative earth system.

Upgrading the headlight wiring is reasonably straightforward, sounds like you were made a shareholder in that guys new car/motorbike/holiday
Well maybe its positive earth?
I'm not sure, but two auto elecs wouldn't do it because the wiring system is reversed or something (too hard), one just flat out refused to work on my "box of sh*t". So i took it Nissco in Bayswater. Randy's very well respected amongst the datto comunity, i doubt he'd rip me off. But i will have words with him.

Nissanman, is there anything different about the datto's elec system to other cars? I don't want to have been ripped off, but i don't want to start a sh*t fight either.
Riley

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 9:21 am 
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Location: sydney
The stock lights are switched on the positive instead of the negative side. See my page here for more details:

http://turbovan.com/wiring.shtml

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 7:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 08, 2017 8:54 am
Posts: 93
What do you mean these sort of things.These are NOS and only cost $40 for the lot the high beam lights have clear lenses and resemble the Aircraft lights I would used years ago .I used wire mesh stone guards on my lights and the cops never picked up on the fact the high beam light lenses were actually clear aircraft landing lights


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 7:13 pm 
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Posts: 93
Another picture yeah no need for more than 100 watt s either.


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