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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 11:13 am 
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MR1600 wrote:
Sr20datsun>
.....Where can i get the 2k primer from??....
Is there anything more specific i have to ask for??
First thing to do is goto you local automotive paint supplier. Have a chat to them, and then find another one and have a chat to them. I like Standox, and Protec (I think that's how they spell it).
But i'm not a professional painter, so it's probably best to speak to them first.
Same goes with the compressor/gun etc. They can tell you everything you need.

From memory:

1. BareMetal. (fresh from the plastic bead blaster). Seam weld
Clean and strip disk/ sand paper 600 to 800 grit all over. Clean with appropriate thinners.
2. Etch prime everywhere ASAP.
3. Body mods with metal removal etc. Sand blast rust off etc.
Re-Sand areas which have no paint and Etch prime over sections that have been repaired.
5. Sand whole car with 800, and then prime with a good 2K primer.
6. Get stuck into the car with SikaFlex to seal all joins, gaps, etc.
LEAVE AT LEAST 2 WEEKS to let the sikaflex dry out and outgas. 2K primer sticks really well to cured sikaflex.
7. Now is the time to do your body repairs with spray putty/bog and sound deadener.
Each time you bog/spray putty, sand it with 800 and spray the 2k primer over the top to seal. Repeat if necessary.
8. Once all bog/putty repairs are done, hit it with a final coat of primer and check that everything is straight.

9. After this is done leave it for a maximum of a week, lightly sand with 1000, and grab that booth and put your final coats of <AHEM> WHITE PAINT 2k paint <AHEM> :D

10. After paint is done, hit the whole car with Wurth rust prevention wax, or some good quality deoderised (non stinky) fish oil. Spray the living daylights out of the car and clean up all drips. Chassis rails, roof, boot, inside outside etc.
Fish oil is great stuff, because you can thin it down with turps. Do a couple of coats in the appropriate areas.

That's what I can remember!

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 12:20 pm 
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MR1600 wrote:


Can anyone please tell me from baremetal to 2 pac what the process is step by step (not including body repairs)


CHeers
Everyone will have a different way, but if the thing is in bare metal and the body is ready to go. This is how I would tackle the paint side of things.

Firstly use a deoxidising wipe to wipe down the bare metal, as rust that you cant even see will begin to develop straight away.
Then hit it with the etch primer, if 1k mix it 1:1 with thiners (dont bother trying to fill with the etch primer), if 2k do whatever it tells you to do.
I would normally rub the etch primer down dry with ~320-400g, fairly course stuff.
Prepsol, then go 3-5 coats with 2k primer filler.
After that hit it with a guide coat (ie - black 'mist coat'). rub that back wet with 400g to show any low/high spots.
If its all good and straight, rub it back again wet with 600g (for a 2k solid top coat). Re-mask and paint.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 12:27 pm 
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Sean's right.
There's many ways of skinning a cat.

I'd personally include some of the things Sean said.

And don't forget... Paint it WHITE!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 12:35 pm 
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SR20Datsun wrote:

And don't forget... Paint it WHITE!
Quite possibly the most important step. :)


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 5:18 pm 
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The only reason i was considering acrylic is because i've been told its easier to sand your mistakes out lol :lol: and i've never used 2 pack


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 6:01 pm 
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I use both.

Acrylic for the main exterior of the car, and 2k for engine bay, and other fiddly areas like under bonnets and boots and sometimes inside doors.

I like 2k for these areas as its a bit more chip and scratch-resistant (handy in the engine bay when re-assembling the car), and you don't need to cut and polish it (which is a nightmare job in fiddly areas).

Acrylic is undoubtedly easier and more forgiving - well, I find it so anyway :? . As you say, if you stuff up just sand it back and apply more coats.

2k can be more prone to getting runs in the finish, getting dust and bugs stuck in it if not done in a booth, and generally is a bit more "fussy" to apply especially to large areas like roofs and bonnets. Or maybe I just need more practice :roll: .

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 12:57 pm 
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Is 2k easy enough to sand out a run? I've done a bit of acrylic painting and a light sand you couldnt tell there was ever a mistake! cauz no doubt there will be a few im no pro :oops:

Someone mentioned just using a cheapo gun for spraying primer, i just notice in the super cheap catalouge they sell guns or are these not even worth looking at? (i don't tend to buy this cheap crap)

Also in the catalouge theres a 2hp, 71L min, 21 litre tank for $129 with hose and few other bits, how can these be so cheap, do they last longer than the first use? I mean if it even lasted a year you could just throw it away!

What size compressor is recommended for spraying?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 1:36 pm 
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Yep must be a WHITE 1600 :D

Yep must be a WHITE 1600

There are many different types of 2pk. Some are sand and buff friendly some are not. I would recommend if you want to use 2pk take it to a booth and get a spray painter to do it. I can otherwise end up a real mess. Each type and brand of 2pk has its own make up and reacts differently when you mix, spray, thin etc. For instance I use Protec's Poly Urethane Enamel 2pk (Bright White of course ) My painter knows this paint and has used it many times. He used no reducer (thinners) at all. Instead he warmed the paint to a certain point and shot it straight on. He said with this particular 2pk it is prone to run, sag and worst of all orange peel from hell when reduced. The end product was very good with only a very light buff required. The paint job is now 3 year old and looks as good as I did on day 1.

Do not buy a cheap gun. Buy a cheap gun and get a cheap result. The best way to think with any prep is fix it before primer. Meaning if it is not quite right it will never be right. It can be hard to see imperfections in your body work until you blow the paint on. By then it's too late. Every step needs to be spot on and CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.

That air comp will be just okay. A bigger comp should really be used. Hire or borrow. Make sure to have a air and water separator on the line otherwise you'll blow water on your freshly painted panel

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 2:44 pm 
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I used Protec's 'farken super bright' Poly urethane 2K enamel on the underside of my car. I thinned it down to requirements, weather was warm, and only got a few runs (well I was underneath the car on stands damn it....)

If you know what you are doing, getting runs/orange peel etc. is easy to minimise. Removing runs are fairly easy with a combination of a razor blade and sand paper. Use the razor end on to remove the run till it is flat with the surrounding paint, and sand with 1200 to finish, then polish the guts out of it.

Buy a cheap gun... (but not too cheap :lol: )
I mean, $hit, you can spend an easy $500+ on a paint gun. Just get a $150 cheapy to do the job yourself and then get a professional to do the final coat of primer and colour. Sand paper is your friend!

Sean said before that 'misting' helps find all the imperfections. Fortunately, my primer was a horrid colour (dark red) which mean you could see everything.. I used spray pack black on areas where I puttied, and then rubbed it off.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:10 pm 
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I wasn't really planning on buying that compressor i was just reading the catalouge at the same time thought i'd add it in :wink:

Think i'd be best sticking to acrylic as i've used it before and yes using that black charcol stuff to help find the low areas etc is a really good idea :D

Any particular brand of guns recommended? will i need to use a different gun between primer and paint? or get one suited to both? gravity or suction fed?

Thanks for all your help


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 10:10 pm 
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Few more questions...sorry to be a pain in the ar..
What pressure is recomended for spraying?
i'm going to buy a regulator soon

Roughly how much primer will i need to cover the a 1600, how many coats of etch and surfacer is common?

I've heard stories of people painting pannels seperatly then putting the on the car and they are slightly different shades, is this because they have been mixed wrong or do u need to do the final say coat or so with all pannels on the car?

cheers :wink:


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:22 am 
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For 2k paints pressure should be 3.5 - 4.5bar

2ltrs of etch primer will do the whole body/engine bay/doorjambs etc easily. You only need a couple of quick coats.

3ltrs-4ltrs of 2k primer should be enough to do the rest.

Its best to do the final coat with all panels on the car, especially if your using clear over base. If its a solid colour, it should be ok to paint seperate, but still, the best practise is to have it all bolted togeather then paint.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 12:49 pm 
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Thanks sean

Is the pressure different for acrylic?

At this stage it will be just a solid acrylic colour but have heard of people mixing clear into the final coat to give it a shine?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 8:48 pm 
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I used (black) acrylic for my repaint. I put three coats of colour, rubbed back with 1000 grit between each coat, then a 50/50 mix of colour and clear, followed by two coats of full clear. The clear makes the colour look deeper , not so much more shine. The full colour coat can be buffed to a brilliant shine, but you have to be very carefull not to over buff and show the undercoat.
With a clear top coat, you can immediatly tell if your buffing the clear off and hitting the colour coat under it.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 11:43 pm 
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What is 2K primer?

How do you tell a coat of 2 pack is tacky without touching it and buggering up your good work?

Where can you and can't you use etch primer?

Can anyone suggest something for sealing seams in shell/bodywork that bonds well, is easy to work, doesn't make so much mess (or makes a mess which is easy to clean up), flexes with movement of seams when you turn corners going up the road? The Sikaflex 262 or 263 or whatever it is, that epoxy stuff goes fkn hard doesn't it? If so it's going to crack as soon as the body twists and flexes.

Do you need to perform any preparation on phosphoric acid (rust converter) treated bare metal before using primer?

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